Following on from the First Step, in Part One of Building a Wardrobe of Bespoke Clothes, this piece is dedicated to the additions. We’ve covered the key pieces, now it’s time to have a bit more fun with pieces that flesh out the basics, focusing more on variations in climate and occasion and bring out your individuality.
A Lightweight Bespoke Two Piece Summer Suit
Select a linen, cotton or wool/silk mix cloth for a suit that will breeze through the summer months. Opt for a single breasted, two button jacket with either full or half lining, in a plain or subtly patterned cloth, adding texture and flair to your wardrobe.
Bespoke Jersey Shirts
Made from soft, luxurious stretch jersey these are the ultimate in comfortable casual style. One can opt for buttons at the front in either a full or half placket (for a more relaxed feel), long or short sleeves. These bespoke jersey shirts perfectly compliment classic suiting, for a contemporary approach, as well as casual separates for relaxed weekends and evenings.
Two Lightweight Bespoke Summer Jackets
As with the mid-weight casual jackets, featured in part one, these lightweight summer jackets will add some texture and interest alongside your foundation pieces. One should choose interesting patterns, elegant checks and a variety of 9oz yarn mixes, including cotton, linen, silk and bamboo to bring out one's signature style.
A Bespoke Overcoat
A bespoke overcoat should be one of the mainstays of your wardrobe. Select a cloth at the 16oz mark. The preferred colours should be plain navy, black, charcoal grey or even camel. These neutral colours a re relatively easy to pair with your suit or any casual ensemble. Depending upon the weather as well as the usage you may opt for luxury cloths such as the vicuna, cashmere chinchilla or even alpaca. But tweed and good old dependable merino wool are also a good bet ..
Remember, in winter, it’s your overcoat that makes those all important first impressions, so our advice is to keep it classic in the style stakes – knee length, single or double breasted.
A Bespoke Gilet
A favourite of ours, the bespoke gilet is as versatile as they come – equally fit for city wear, over suits and separates, as it is for traditional country pursuits.
Outdoor wear calls for heavyweight 14oz cloths in tweeds and Donegals with herringbone, marls and plain flannels also serious contenders. You can consider slightly lighter weights and more luxurious yarns if your gilet wear is purely around town, opting for mid weight wools and lighter cashmere mix cloths.