In this short write-up, we provide a definitive overview of the different types of fabrics commonly used in dress shirts. By understanding what the different weaves mean for a piece of fabric, you can find the ideal dress shirt fabric for your needs.
Broadcloth
Broadcloth—often referred to as poplin–is a tightly woven fabric with a very simple over-under weave and very little sheen, which makes it nice and professional. Broadcloths are great for guys looking for as little texture as possible in their fabrics. They are generally a thinner, lighter fabric. Particularly, white broadcloth fabrics can be slightly transparent. Broadcloths generally wear the smoothest out of all weaves thanks to their lack of texture, but can also be the most prone to wrinkling. Broadcloth is a very lightweight, smooth, flat-looking fabric, with no pattern in the weave of the threads. It is similar in quality to pinpoint fabric but has less texture. This usually means it is slightly more transparent and not as shiny as the pinpoint fabric. Broadcloth fabric comes in a variety of thread counts, ranging from 50 singles to over 140 doubles.
Broadcloth dress shirts are very versatile. A classic white broadcloth fitted dress shirt will appear very dressy and be perfect for formal occasions. Broadcloth makes for an excellent wedding dress shirt or a business interview dress shirt. Additionally, because broadcloth is such a simple weave type, you’ll find that broadcloths can offer greater complexity and detail in terms of pattern/color design. Depending on the pattern, these can make for an excellent casual dress shirt. Because it is a lightweight dress shirt fabric, it works great for year-round wear.
Broadcloth Fabric Weave
The weave is an extremely simple construction, technically speaking, where the warp and weft yarns cross over and under each other one yarn at a time.
The checkered weave of Broadcloth Fabric.
Twill
Twill fabrics are easily recognizable because they will show diagonal weave or texture. The diagonal effect can range from very fine, subtle twills to much larger Imperial or Cavalry twills. Twills will almost always have a bit of shine, though the degree can depend on the weave, color, and cotton used. Twill is an extremely tight weave, that can come in extremely high thread counts, some of which might be mistaken for silk. Because of the diagonal texture twill is a bit softer than broadcloth and will drape more easily. Twill won’t give you the same “crisp” look that freshly pressed broadcloth can, but it’s relatively easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles. Twill is a beautiful fabric. It is detailed and elaborate and comes in a variety of patterns and styles. Depending on the color of the threads used and the weave variation, it can produce a diagonal or herringbone texture. Twill fabrics are often more substantial (thicker) and less transparent than broadcloth of similar quality. Twill fabrics will also usually be a bit shinier, and drape in a way that is softer than broadcloth or pinpoint.
Within the twill fabric family, you can find a variety, including:
Imperial and Cavalry Twills
These are the thickest twills, and they will have a very bold, noticeable texture to them.
Royal Twills
These have less diagonal texture than the Imperial or Cavalry Twills, but their texture will still be noticeable from a close distance. We typically reserve this name for very high thread count twills (120s) that are of only the best quality.
Fine Twills
Woven more tightly, the diagonal texture will only be apparent on close inspection. A simple, solid color twill dress shirt is extremely dressy and fit for any formal occasion.
Denim
Believe it or not, denim is also a type of twill. Look closely at your jeans and you will see the fine diagonal texture.
Twill Fabric Weave
By varying the weave slightly, significantly different patterns can emerge. Here are two similar weaves that produce a diagonal texture:
A diagonal weave pattern.
Another diagonal weave pattern.
A herringbone twill weave pattern.
Pinpoint Oxford
Pinpoint (also referred to as pinpoint oxford) has the same weave as oxford cloth, although it uses a finer yarn and tighter weave. It is more formal than oxford cloth but less formal than broadcloth or twill. Think of them as great everyday work shirts, but not necessarily the first recommendation for special events. Pinpoint fabrics are generally not transparent and are slightly heavier and thicker than broadcloths. Because of their heavier construction, pinpoints are fairly durable fabrics. Opt for a twill or broadcloth if you’re looking for a formal shirt. Pinpoint Oxford, commonly called just “pinpoint” for short is a very popular dress shirt fabric type. It’s both dressy and durable. It has a bit of a matte, crisp finish, though not as silky and flat (thin) as broadcloth, and definitely not as shiny as royal oxford or twill. It works well on both formal and casual occasions. A pinpoint dress shirt feels a bit more substantial than a broadcloth dress shirt, as it’s a tad thicker and therefore less transparent.
Difference between pinpoint and oxford fabric
Pinpoint fabric and Oxford fabrics weave the threads together the same way. The difference between the fabrics is not in the weave but in the thickness and weight of the yarns that are used. Pinpoint generally has a higher thread count and a lighter, finer weave than Oxford Cloth. Thus, pinpoint dress shirts are preferable over oxford cloth dress shirts informal situations. Pinpoint makes for an elegant wedding dress shirt, or business interview dress shirt, while oxford cloth would be better suited for a casual or outdoor event.
Pinpoint oxford fabric weave
Pinpoint oxford uses an under–over weave, such that the fabric has a bit more texture than comparable broadcloth. Below are examples of the weaving patterns used for both pinpoint oxford and oxford cloth shirt fabrics.
Chambray
Chambray is a plain weave fabric. That means it has a similar construction to broadcloth, though it is generally made with heavier yarns for a more relaxed or workwear appeal. Generally, there will be white threads running in the weft/width direction such that the fabric has an inconsistent color to it. This could be compared to an end-on-end, though chambray is generally much heavier and more appropriate for casual wear than dress.
Denim
We all know denim as the fabric of our jeans. But construction-wise, denim is a twill fabric. A sturdy, possibly coarser twill often dyed with indigo. For the most part though, when it comes to denim shirting, you’re mostly going to find much softer, lighter versions of the fabric than what your jeans are made of. Denim shirting can come in many forms but generally have a different color on the inside than the outside.
Dobby
Dobby (which is very similar to Jacquard, although technically different) can vary widely. Some versions are quite similar to broadcloth in terms of thickness and weight, while others can be thicker or woven to almost look like twill. Many dobby fabrics have stripes woven into them, although some are solid colors. The solid colors tend to have a faint stripe or dotted patterns woven in the same color as the base cloth.
End-on-End
End-on-end broadcloths are a very popular type of dress shirt fabric with a distinct contrast coloring. Woven with colored thread in the warp and white thread in the weft, it looks like a true solid from a distance but has more texture when seen from up close. Typically a lighter weight fabric, it’s a great choice for those living in warmer climates.
Flannel
A fall/winter favorite. Flannels are warm, fuzzy fabrics that are most often brushed twill or brushed poplin fabrics. While they’re most regularly 100% cotton, they sometimes can come in cotton/wool, and even cotton/cashmere blends for added warmth. Usually made in thicker weaves, these are decidedly casual fabrics that are great for cold weather.
Melange
Melange fabrics can come in every sort of weave–poplin, twill, royal oxford, etc–and are woven using multi-colored yarns. Each yarn will be dyed this way, most often with 2-3 subtlety different hues. These unique yarns can help achieve a heathered, intentionally inconsistent, somewhat organic look. Melange fabrics are different than Mouline fabrics, as Mouline fabrics are made from consistent, one-color yarns that are twisted together to achieve a multi-color look.
Oxford Cloth
Oxford Cloth is very similar to pinpoint oxford, except it uses a slightly heavier thread and looser weave. It has a slightly rougher texture but is more durable than most fabrics. It’s composed of a symmetrical basketweave where one yarn may cross two yarns. Originally developed for sportswear, so it’s the least dressy, and (in some circles) not considered appropriate for office or formal wear. Oxford cloth has always been a staple in traditional American button-down polo shirts. It can be worn slightly wrinkled straight from the dryer and still look great.
Poplin
Poplin is so similar to Broadcloth that we decided not to distinguish between the two in our fabric descriptions. For all practical purposes, you can equate the two. They are both a plain weave fabric that is going to be quite thin, smooth, and flat. That said, technically Poplin is different than Broadcloth in that Poplins can have different weight yarns in the warp and weft while broadcloths will have a symmetrical construction. For example, broadcloths could be 100/2×100/2 (meaning 100s two-ply in the warp and weft) while a poplin could be 100/2×60/1 (meaning 100s two-ply in the warp and 60s single-ply in the weft).
Royal Oxford
Royal Oxford is what we call a “pretty fabric”. Although the name is similar, it is not at all similar to pinpoint oxford or oxford cloth. It is a dressy fabric with a distinctive shine and texture. With a more prominent weave than broadcloth or pinpoint, it’s ideal for those interested in a dress or formal shirt with visible texture.
Royal Oxford is a beautiful, flashy dress shirt fabric. It has an elaborate weave that gives it a distinctive, significant texture. It’s usually very shiny. Royal Oxford fabric is well known for its softness. Something about the weave makes the yarns puff out a bit and it just feels cushy and nice. One must not confuse Royal Oxford cloth with regular oxford cloth, or pinpoint oxford cloth. They are totally different. Regular oxford cloth is a much heavier, rougher, and casual-looking fabric. Pinpoint is great for both everyday business and formal looks as well. However, Royal Oxford, particularly in white is best suited for your most formal of occasions, either with a suit or tuxedo.
Because Royal Oxford fabric is such a fancy-looking fabric, we especially recommend it for french cuff dress shirts and wide spread collar dress shirts. Pair a nice fitted dress shirt with a dark navy suit and you’ll feel extra sharp.
Herringbone
Herringbone shirts are popular, more textured shirts for both dress and casual wear. Herringbone is essentially a twill that is mirrored when woven to create the sort of chevron, “V-shaped” look. The fabric’s name comes from its resemblance to the bones of a herring fish.
Seersucker
Seersucker is a fabric primarily used to make shirts for warm weather and is known for its distinctive puckered appearance. This puckered look is created in the finishing of the fabric, after it’s woven, and helps to promote airflow while being worn. This helps make seersucker very comfortable in the summer. While seersucker fabrics can come in any color or pattern, blue striped seersucker is most popular.
Linen
Linen fabrics are incredibly breathable and, like seersucker, typically made to be worn in hot climates. Linen is made from the fiber of the flax plant and can be very labor-intensive to produce. Typically linen will be more loosely woven and sheer than most cotton shirts and has a very unique dry hand to it that is unlike cotton. Linen also tends to wrinkle more easily than cotton and generally feels much more relaxed because of this. While we love the look and feel of linen, some people prefer cotton/linen blended shirts as you can achieve much of the coolness of a linen shirt while reducing wrinkling.
Egyptian, Sea Island, and American Pima Cotton
When you hear about Egyptian, Sea Island, or American Pima cotton you should know that this is not referring to the type of weave, but to the type of cotton used to make the weave. For practical purposes, Pima cotton, Sea Island and Egyptian cotton are all kinds of cotton derived from originally the same plant: Gossypium Barbadense. These are more desirable cotton because they are typically “extra-long staple length” cotton (length greater than 1 3/8″), which allows them to be spun into finer, stronger yarns.
All three of these kinds of cotton are typically regarded as high-end, luxury raw goods. Egyptian and American Pima will be the most readily available, while Sea Island cotton is well-known for being incredibly rare. Often, American Pima will be woven into fabrics of a slightly lower quality than Egyptian as it is not as clean of fiber, despite having similar staple lengths.
There is also a famous, rare form of Egyptian cotton called “Giza 45” that is specially used for some of the world’s finest shirting fabrics–notably Thomas Mason Goldline fabrics. This is a highly acclaimed form of cotton found in a particular portion of the Nile Delta, that can be woven to produce incredibly fine yet strong yarns. Fabric made from Giza 45 cotton tends not to degrade over time as much as other Egyptian or American Pima kinds of cotton.
Accounting for just .0004% of the cotton supply available, Sea Island Cotton is the rarest in the world. What makes Sea Island Cotton so desirable is its unique combination of characteristics: extra-long staple length, remarkable fiber strength, incredibly uniform growth, and a significant brightness in color.
While other high-end shirting kinds of cotton like Egyptian cotton and American Pima can boast extra-long staple length above 1 3/8″, it’s Sea Island Cotton’s durability, consistency, vibrant color, and silky luster that makes it different from these. The uniformity, strength, and “hairlessness” of the fiber allow fabric woven from it to last an incredibly long time and actually become smoother each time they’re laundered.
The best Sea Island Cotton comes from Barbados because the incredibly uniform, humid climate of the island allows for the cotton plants to grow in a consistent way throughout the year. The cotton in Barbados is also picked by hand to ensure the highest quality levels.
Making matters a bit confusing, there are trademarks filed around the names “Sea Island” and “Supima”. Keep an eye out for “Certified Sea Island Cotton” vs. “Sea Island Quality”, as only the former will be authentic and it’s something we often see on the market.
Thread Count
If everything else is the same (weave, ply, mill, and type of cotton), a higher thread count means a smoother, silkier, more expensive fabric. Thread count is often referred to with a number like the 50s, 80s, 100s, 120s, 140s, 170s, etc up to 330s. These numbers refer to the yarn size, but keep in mind that typically a thread count above 100 will imply a 2-ply fabric.
Though there are some exceptions when extremely fine single ply yarns are used, these higher number thread counts will be two yarns twisted together. For example, 120’s thread count means that two 60’s yarns are twisted together. Generally, this fabric will be more durable than a 60’s single ply, but it won’t necessarily be smoother. 140’s thread counts are typically two 70’s yarns twisted together. And so on and so forth
While thread count can be an indicator of quality, remember that ply, mill, and quality of cotton will have just as much to do with how luxurious the fabric is.
Two-Ply vs Single Ply
Ply is how many yarns are twisted together to make a single thread. Shirting fabrics are most often two-ply or single-ply. Two-ply means that two yarns are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the fabric. (Note that this is not at all like two-ply toilet paper!). Two-ply fabrics are generally superior to single-ply fabrics in their durability. Three-ply fabrics are rare but can be found occasionally.
Thank you for taking the time to go through this blog. We, at Keshan Bespoke stock most of the varieties of cloth discussed above. Do let us know if you would like to look at some varieties.
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